How to Build a Small Solar Power System > 자유게시판

A fuse needs to have a maximum current capacity that slightly exceeds the peak current flow in your system. After selecting the type of system (choose "off-grid") and your latitude, enter the values for installed peak PV power (in Wp), battery capacity (in Wh), discharge cutoff limit (in %), energy consumption (in Wh), the inclination angle of slope (in degrees) and azimuth (in degrees, the position of the PV panel relative to the direction due South). When used in the same environment, such as industry, a power cable needs a thicker insulation and jacket than a control cable. The walls of the conduit ensure the cable smoothly traverses the system without threats of damage to the stranded wire rope. Put a fuse in the positive wire between the battery and the solar charge controller as close to the battery as possible. You need to match the power production of the solar panel to the device(s) that you want to charge or power.

If you want reliability thanks to a more extensive battery system, multiply the required battery capacity by the number of bad weather days you need power. Any device with an adapter - the counterpart of the inverter - can be plugged straight into a low-voltage network by simply replacing or modifying the power cord. With two of these panels connected in parallel, you need components that can take 6A of current. If you want to run 5V devices, you need a module that has a steady 5V output. This type of DC-DC converter can be directly connected to a solar panel and power all devices, no matter the voltage they run on. Small-scale solar power systems can be mobile or static. Most conventional systems have solar panels with a fixed angle and orientation. Once you have solved the problem, you can replace the fuse. It is placed in the positive wire, just like a fuse. If there is a short circuit, the current will increase, and the fuse will blow. The maximum current of your system is determined by the solar panel and the battery.

If the solar panel is active, the battery voltage increases and no longer corresponds to the storage capacity. The cheapest solar charge controllers work fine, but they should work on the correct voltage and have sufficient capacity (see how to size a solar system). Second, you should also take into account the charge and discharge losses, which add at least 20% (or 48 watt-hours) to the total, resulting in a lead-acid battery storage capacity of 288 watt-hours (10% for lithium-ion batteries, 152 Wh). If you live in an area where clouds are common, you better size the solar panel to fully charge the battery with a moderate cloud cover. Lead-acid batteries should not drop below 50% of their maximum capacity, and for lithium-ion, that’s 15%. If you need 120 watt-hours of storage capacity, you thus need a 240 watt-hours lead-acid battery (or a 138 Wh lithium-ion battery). You can then play with the different variables to get the minimum energy production and storage you need. Right. That’s part of the discussion we had a little bit earlier is physics play a role.

In both cases, get the right "size" of cables, fuses, connectors, and switches. Pick the right "size" of solar charge controller in a battery storage solar system. In less sunny climates with more seasonal differences, you need much larger panels to charge the batteries in winter. If you use a 12V solar panel and a 12V battery, you also need a 12V charge controller. Harvesting solar energy inside a building may not be the most efficient, but the structure of the solar panel doesn’t need to withstand wind and rain. The lower support structure has to remain stable even if the panel is upright (unless you don’t want that). However, a support structure that allows the panel to vary its tilt according to the seasons is usually good enough. It’s a good idea to fix a solar panel onto a stand. I have made two large structures, one for a 30W solar panel (which runs this solar-powered website) and one for two 50W panels, which power the living room.

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