How you can Replace the Fluorescent Starter in A Windhager Bug Zapper > 자유게시판

Fourmilab is surrounded on three sides by farmland. Within the summer, Zap Zone Defender bugs are everywhere. Faced with this example, defence in depth is the only choice: window screens, Zap Zone Defender bats, Odonata on the pond, fly strips on the home windows and Zap Zone Defender Experience swatters in every room, and as the last degree of terminal defence, high voltage bug zappers with ultraviolet fluorescent lures. These aren't elegant gadgets, however they get the job accomplished. The precept couldn't be simpler-flying insects, whose compound eyes see lengthy-wave ultraviolet mild that mammalian eyes don't, are attracted by the lure tube, which seems to emit a dim blue gentle to humans. To succeed in the light, they should fly between wires electrified with between four and 8 kilovolts which, when the insect completes the circuit, kill-a-bug. The only downside (at the least if you are not a flying insect) is that they don't appear to last very long. After a little multiple summer, the bulb either starts to flash on and off like a strobe mild or just refuses to mild at all.

Replacement bulbs are readily out there and easy to put in, however in my Zap Zone Defender Experience, at the least half the time changing the bulb would not fix the issue. With no gentle to draw the insects, a zapper is ineffective, so even though its high voltage subsystem continues to work perfectly, most people junk it when changing the bulb does not make it gentle up. I'm manner too low cost to be happy with such a state of affairs, so I decided to open up a failed bug zapper and see what was occurring. The source of the problem proved to be so simple as I expected and as straightforward to treatment, so in the hope of saving anyone else the trouble of figuring it out, I've scribbled these notes on learn how to repair your personal bug zappers. These instructions pertain to bug zappers made by the Windhager company of Salzburg, Austria, who've a dominant market share on this obscure industry right here in Central Europe.

Obviously, when you've got a bug zapper made by one other company, it's going to look completely different inside and may conceivably use an entirely different circuit for the fluorescent lamp. Unless you understand what you're doing and know enough electronics to be confident you are not going to do something stupid, it is best to leave issues properly enough alone and get a brand new bug zapper. Further, we'll be disassembling and modifying a system which, when opened up, has exposed connections to probably lethal mains present and intensely unpleasant if not deadly high voltage. In case you are sufficiently silly or scatterbrained that you are prone to neglect to drag the mains plug earlier than sticking your hand inside the guts of a bug zapper, it is best to stop reading instantly and choose some safer challenge, like making microwave popcorn. To start with, earlier than starting this process, make sure to try replacing the bulb and see if that fixes the problem.

If it does, you have saved a number of time and, if not, you are going to wish a substitute bulb ultimately, so why not have one readily available when the time comes? If a brand new bulb would not do the trick, the problem is almost certainly a failed fluorescent starter inside the field, so we'll must open it up. You did remember to unplug the zapper earlier than starting to disassemble it, didn't you? First, remove the bug catcher tray at the bottom of the zapper, taking care not to spill lifeless bugs all around the floor or your work space. Depending on the mannequin, the two halves of the physique of the bug zapper are fastened along with 4 or six screws. On "industrial" models, these are 2 mm metric machine screws and nuts, but some "consumer" models use infernal "split slot" screws that are intended to maintain you from opening up the machine. You see, you are a client, so you are anticipated to eat-buy, buy, purchase, not mend things which break.